RAJASTHAN DIARIES - Day 2

AJMER & PUSHKAR

Victoria Tower, Ajmer

We left for Ajmer early in the morning and took a rickshaw to the Gopalbari Railyway Station which is about 1.5 km from the Hotel Sunder Palace. We boarded the Garib Rath Express that operates between Chandigarh and Ajmer at 7:15 am and had our breakfast on the way. In spite of the fact that it was a public holiday on account of Gandhi Jayanti, there were hardly any people in the train. I spent most of the time observing the scenes form the window; the ones I remember are that of women in traditional attire walking along the lush green fields and of men in turbans resting in the shade of the trees as they cattle grazed nearby. In course of time, these would become common sights, yet their charm was not lost. The train covered a distance of about 140 km passing through Kanakpur, Asalpur Jobner, Pholeru Junction, Narana, Kishangarh and Madar. Minutes before the journey ended at about 9:30 am, we also caught a glimpse of the picturesque Taragarh fort.

Located to the west of Jaipur amidst the Aravallis, Ajmer is the fifth largest city in the state in terms of population. It is believed that the city grew around the hill fort of Ajay-Meru that was established by Chauhan chieftain Ajayraj Singh in late seventh century. From these humble origins, the fortunes of the town grew exponentially in the coming centuries with the slow rise in the political power of the Chauhans who would rule most of north-western India by the twelfth century. As such long before cities like Jaipur, Jodhpur and Kota came into existence, Ajmer was one of the most important urban centres in Rajputana. When the Chauhans supplanted the Tomaras, Ajmer along with Delhi served as the capital of their Empire. It was around this time that the great Sufi saint Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti who is today, synonymous with Ajmer settled here after a vision from the Prophet himself directed him to do so. Following the victory of the Ghurid forces over the forces of Prithviraj III Chauhan in AD 1192, this city emerged as a base for the strongest amongst the Delhi Sultans to subdue recalcitrant Rajput princes. In the mid 14^th century, Ajmer became a bone of contention between the kingdoms of Marwar and Mewar. The next important chapter in Ajmer's history comes during the reign of Mughal Emperor Akbar the Great who is believed to have been a regular visitor to the dargah of Gharib Nawaz. Besides him, his two immediate successors - Jehangir and Shah Jahan are believed to have occasionally held their royal durbar here. After the disintegration of the Mughal Empire, the city was held by the Marathas who in turn sold it to the British in AD 1818. Queen Mary of England visited the town and paid her respects to its patron saint during her visit in December 1911. Thus, Ajmer is one of the few cities in the this part of the country that can boast a blend of Rajput, Muslim and British heritage, something that I believe has not been celebrated the way it should be.

We had not booked any room in Ajmer since we were to spend the evening at Pushkar. As such, we left our luggage at the cloak room in the railway station. I and Da bought four locks from a shop nearby since they do not accept any baggage without a lock. As I mentioned earlier, it was Gandhi Jayanti and PM Narendra Modi had just launched his ambitious 'Swach Bharat Abhiyaan' or 'Clean India' programme. From railway officials to school kids, everyone present there was busy cleaning the railway station. As you come out of the station, spend some time looking at the terracotta wall pieces (Link) that embellish the structure on the front side; it is definitely worth a look. The we walked towards the Magazine (Link) - a residential palace built by Emperor Akbar that serves as the ASI museum today. The next stop was Ajmer's most popular attraction - the sepulchre of Gharib Nawaz (Link). En route we had tasty Lassi by the roadside and gorged on some fresh Singhada (Water Caltrop). We left our footwear and other belongings at a shop near the entrance and bought a green chaddar (carpet) and some flowers as offerings to the revered saint. A man at the shop guided us towards the tomb at the Center of the complex. We managed to negotiate through the crowds and entered the shrine through the small opening with great difficulty.

After paying our obeisance to the Khwaja, we went to the Adhai Din ka Jhopra (Link), a temple that was converted into a mosque by Sultan Qutubuddin Aibak. Having spent about half an hour at this twelfth century masjid, we hired a taxi for Rs. 600/- from the Jhopra to the Taragarh Fort (Link) that overlooks Ajmer and offers some spectacular view of the city. On the way, we had a five minute stop over at the Anna Sagar Lake (Link) which is believed to have been constructed by Anaji Chauhan and beautified by the Mughals. For lunch, we went to Hotel Elite which is situated next to the King Edward VII Memorial and close to the Railway station. I had Shahi Paneer and Rotis whereas the rest had Vegetable Thalli. The food was cheap and very tasty too. From there we took a rickshaw to the Soneji ki Nusiyan (Link) which is a 19^th century temple dedicated to the first Thirthanker Rishabnath which showcases some episodes from Jain mythology. From there we returned back the station, picked our luggage and went to Pushkar in an Omni costing Rs. 450/-.

Nearly 15 km west of Ajmer, the town of Pushkar is referred to in the Puranas as 'Teerth Raj' or the holiest of all pilgrimage centers. Hindu mythology tells us that it was here that Lord Brahma began his herculean task of creating the universe and its myriad inhabitants. In fact, it is one of the handful of places in India where the 'Creator' is worshiped. Moreover, Pushkar is also the center of the annual camel fair which is touted to be world's largest animal fair. Over the last few decades, besides pilgrims, the town has been attracting a large number of foreign tourists too.

After reaching Pushkar at 4:30 pm, we checked in to hotel Kanhaiya Haveli. Run by the Heda family, the hotel is situated close to the holy lake at the heart of the town. Similar to Hotel Sunder Palace, the hotel is huge and spacious; the verandahs and the staircase are decorated with paintings and other show pieces native to the state. Although the rooms are small and not all have proper ventilation, one needs to understand that it is a budget hotel and expectations need to be set accordingly.

After resting for some time, we headed to the Pushkar Lake to spend the evening and watch the aarti on the Varaha Ghat. We had tea at a stall near the entrance of the Raghunath Swamy Temple and then walked to the lake. Surrounded by 52 Ghats, the 22 square km large lake is 'the most happening place' in the small town. We sat at the Kali Ghat with our feet in the tank as small fishes came and nibbled on them. The view of the sun going down amongst the temples on the Ghats with birds flying by was truly stunning. After witnessing the pooja at the Varaha temple, we took a parikrama (round) around the lake. In the evening, Mom and Bhabi did some shopping in the bazaar on the way to the Brahma temple.

Atithi Devo Bhavah

Credit: International Crane Foundation

The real India, as Mahatma Gandhi once said, lies in her myriad villages and no worthwhile development is possible on the national front without the active participation of our rural brothers. Although most of our villages are still plagued by social evils and insufficient infrastructure development, there is no doubt in the fact that village communities have the potential to improve their living, without much assistance from the government, when the people are inspired and their infinite energies are directed in the right manner. The village of Khichan in the Jodhpur district of Rajasthan is a perfect example of how community development and social activism at the rural level can help villagers improve their living standards. The village, which has become popular among bird watchers, achieved international recognition when it was featured in Birding World magazine in an article titled, “Khichan - the Demoiselle crane village."

Located in the pristine sands of the Thar desert, Khichan is just like any other village located in the region. From the outside, there is not much in the village that makes it stand apart from the other villages that surround it. The economy is agrarian and the nearest town, Phalodi, located 4.5 km away, is renowned for its salt industry. However, with the onset of winter, winged visitors from plains and steppes of Eurasia and Mongolia come to this village, primarily due to the tradition of feeding wild birds established here, a few decades ago. The feeding programme, coupled with the presence of sand dunes and water ponds, has made this place a favourite destination for the migratory Demoiselle cranes, while on their stay in India.

The Demoiselle cranes (Anthropides virgo) are the smallest and second most abundant species of cranes in the world, with sightings being reported from as many as 47 countries. They weigh about 2-3 kg with a height of 89 cm and wing span of 155 -180 cm. Essentially grassland birds, the cranes have plain bluish gray plumage and are omnivores. They mainly feed on plant materials, insects, peanuts, beans and other cereal grains, and small animals. Demoiselle cranes have to take one of the toughest migrations in the world. In late August through September, they gather in flocks of up to 400 individuals and prepare for their flight to their winter range. Along their arduous journey they have to cross the Himalayan mountains to get to their over wintering grounds in India, many die from fatigue, hunger and predation from birds such as eagles. At their wintering grounds, Demoiselles have been observed flocking with Common cranes, their combined totals reaching up to 20,000 individuals.

The annual feeding spectacle began when a local, belonging to the Jain community, started offering grains to the feathered visitors or Kurjars, as they are locally known here. Soon as the number of people looking after the cranes grew, the feathered visitors seem to have been deeply impressed by the 'Khichan brand of hospitality'. This can be inferred from the fact that the number of Demoiselles arriving in this place annually, grew from a few dozen in the 1980s to well over 15,000 today. Although omnivores, villagers in the Khichan, like in other parts of the Thar, venerate them for their perceived vegetarian eating habits and for the norm of keeping a single life partner all through their lifetime. In fact both of the above perceived behavioral patterns of these cranes are consistent with the teachings of Mahavir, the founder of Jainism, which continues to thrive in this part of the country.

Credit: International Crane Foundation

With the donations coming primarily from the Jain community, the villagers have constructed a rectangular enclosure 50x60 m at the edge of the village, known locally as Chugga Ghar(Feeding Centre). The children of the village chip in their bit and it is their duty to spread the grains before the flocks of cranes arrive for their breakfast session of about 90 min. After feeding, the cranes, in large congregations, are seen at some of the water bodies and sand dunes to the north of Khichan. They face the sun, their tie-like black chest feathers contrasting with the blue winter sky. A short while later they depart in different directions in small family flocks in a disciplined order led by the female, followed closely by two young ones with the male forming the rear guard. Again, during mid-day, they assemble for a drink, followed by an occasional bath, and a second feed. Acrobatic exhibition of mutual affection between couples is also seen. They roost in faraway agriculture fields and return to the same water bodies next day, early in the morning. As per the report of the International crane Foundation:

"All cranes engage in dancing, which includes various behaviors

such as bowing, jumping, running, stick or grass tossing, and wing flapping.

Dancing can occur at any age and is commonly associated with courtship, however,

it is generally believed to be a normal part of motor development for cranes

and can serve to thwart aggression, relieve tension, and strengthen the pair bond."

The people of this village are very protective of their annual visitors. This fact comes into prominence from the story of Sevaram Mallu Parhivar, a local contractor. Seeing that a large number of birds were getting electrocuted, he filed a complaint with the District Administration, asking for placing the electric transmission lines underground. As the DC ignored his repeated complaints, he approached the High Court against the State Electricity Board. However, inspite of his noble intentions, the Court imposed a fine of Rs. 4 lakhs on him. But with the help of the State Forest Department, Sevaram filed an appeal in the High Court and eventually won the case.

Credit: International Crane Foundation

In fact such is the love and admiration of the Demoiselles that they have become a part of the local tradition and culture. They are an integral part of the desert love lore about Marwari migrants of yore who were forced to live separately from their loved ones due to compulsions of trade. Fussy eaters amongst the kids are known as 'Kurjars' and engaged girls are fondly referred to as 'Kurjaris'. The birds are revered as messengers of God and are believed to yield magical powers.

The place is soon developing into a magnet for tourists. A large number of travelers, both local and international, come to Khichan to see and study these migratory birds from such close range and in such large numbers. Their flights, in the setting of the conventional mansions (some of them are heritage buildings being converted to tourist lodges) of the village, present brilliant photo-ops. The Marwar Crane Foundation has pledged financial support to the feeding program. A director of the International Crane Foundation has visited Khichan. This foundation is also supporting the efforts of Marwar Crane Foundation in feeding the cranes. The government, for a change, has been quick enough to realize the potential of this place as a popular tourist attraction, thanks to the cranes and peculiar indigenous architecture. As such, the State government has given heritage status to the village and it has also got a package of Rs. 75 lakhs from the Union government in the last budget.

In recent times, the cranes have been disturbed by dogs and passing villagers. To add to the problems, illegal encroachments have developed over the years, much to the consternation of bird watching vacation tourists. There has been also an effort to move the prevailing feeding area as it has become too crowded but it has not yet been implemented. Also, the feeding program has led to a drastic increase in the number of crows, pigeons and rats in the village, which has increased the vulnerability to diseases. Besides, a significant number of the people here feel that it would be better if the money was spent on the poor and the needy, rather than the migratory birds.

Although there will be skeptics, the village of Khichan is a testimonial to the fact that man and nature can co-exist peacefully. The villagers here have realized the fact that their own survival is inter-linked with that of their feathered friends. It is instances like this that bring to light, the amount of knowledge that is present in the interiors of India, and make us proud to be Indians.

Credit: International Crane Foundation

Special Thanks to : Vishwanath Bhat

SOURCES

(1) NDTV Profit: Apollo Presents - The Unstoppable Indians (Link)

(2) The Hindu - Desert turns birds’ paradise (Link)

(3) Lal Nivas - Demoiselle Cranes: The Royalty of Khichan (Link)

(4) Wikipedia – Khichan (Link)

IMAGES

(1) Credit: International Crane Foundation (Link)

Original: Demoiselle Cranes

(2)  Credit: International Crane Foundation (Link)

Original: Demoiselle Cranes

(3) Credit: International Crane Foundation (Link) 
Original: Demoiselle Cranes

 (4) Credit: Wikipedia (Link)

Original: Anthropoides virgo at Twycros Zoo