ANASAGAR LAKE, AJMER

AJMER'S LARGEST LAKE

View of the Anasagar Lake from Taragarh Fort

March 1659. On the banks of the serene Anasagar Lake in Ajmer, Prince Dara bid a teary eyed adieu to his chief Begum Nadira, his other wives, concubines and other members of his extended harem. As he entrusted the responsibilities of taking care of the women to eunuchs and some of his trusted aides, he promised his family that whatever be the result of the impending battle he would come back and meet them at the Anasagar. A victory would mean that the entourage led by the prince would proceed towards Agra where Dara, claimed by many to be the 'Second Akbar' owing to his policy of religious tolerance, would be crowned the sixth Mughal emperor as envisaged by his father Shah Jahan. On the other hand, a defeat would more or less end his claim to the royal throne.

The last one year had been particularly difficult for the 45 year old prince. Already elevated to the rank of the 'Crown Prince' by his father some months ago, he had blessings of the incumbent emperor and most of the subjects in Delhi. Ably assisted by his elder son Sulaiman Shikoh, he even won a handsome victory over his younger brother Shah Shuja at Bahadurpur. However in May 1658, at Samugarh in what could be described as a 'moment of madness', his Mughal-Rajput army which was on the threshold of an easy win over the combined forces of Prince Aurangzeb and Prince Murad turned their backs and fled from the battlefield just because Dara was forced to temporarily dismount his howdah, thereby handing over the Peacock Throne to his younger brothers on a platter. The victors marched on to Agra and imprisoned Shah Jahan even as his favorite son fled to the west, aiming to raise a new army and win back the empire.

Marble Baradari, Anasagar Lake

In what would be one of the final chapters in this sanguinary fratricidal war, the forces of Aurangzeb and Murad took on Dara's army at Deorai near Ajmer. After the rather unexpected win at Samugarh, the ranks of the princes had swollen; many nobles and governors from all over the empire had switched their allegiance to Aurangzeb thereby largely isolating Dara. Hence, in spite of a heroic fight put forth by his men, Dara was routed and with this defeat his dream of succeeding his father was all but over. In the melee that followed, the prince did not keep up the promise he had made to his family. The royal entourage waited for long at the Anasagar and once they received the unfortunate news of the defeat, they had no option but to leave; staying behind would make them an easy target for the victorious army. Though the harem would later reunite with the fallen prince, the joy was short lived. Dara Shikoh, the man who was destined to take over the throne from his father was captured a few months later and put to death by his brother and future emperor Alamgir Aurangzeb.

Considering that Ajmer was one of the most important centers in the empire during the era of the Great Mughals, it is certain that the city and more importantly, the beautiful lake that is located at its center did witness many important events during this period, like the one I have mentioned above. The construction of this fresh water lake is attributed to Anoraji or Anaji Chauhan - the grandfather of Prithviraj III Chauhan in mid twelfth century. The Daulat Bagh was laid out by Emperor Jahangir whereas the five beautiful Baradaris or marble pavilions that offer stunning views of the seren lake were constructed by Emperor Shah Jahan in AD 1637. The pavilion at the center is the most exquisite and is inspired by the Diwan-i-Khas in the Red Fort in Delhi. There are boating facilities available that take tourists to the island located in the middle of the lake.

MORE POSTS RELATED TO AJMER

(1) Terracotta Wall Frames (Link)

(2) Akbar's Palace or the Magazine or the ASI Museum (Link)

(3) Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti's Dargah (Link)

(4) Adhai Din ka Jhopra or Jama Altamash (Link)

ADHAI DIN KA JHOPRA, AJMER

A SHOWPIECE OF EARLY ISLAMIC ARCHITECTURE

One of the least well-known yet in my opinion, the most important monument in Ajmer from historical perspective is the Adhai Din ka Jhopra, also known as the Jama Altamash. As you come out of the shrine of Gharib Nawaz, take the Andar Kot road and walk past hotels and sweet shops navigating your way through the hordes of people to reach this monument. Unlike the Magazine, the entrance is shabby and is lined with beggars. Certainly, the ASI can do a better job here.

There are two prominent theories as to how this edifice got its name. The more popular one says that this Ghurid mosque was constructed within a span of two and a half days; the story goes that after capturing Ajmer following his victory over the forces of Prithviraj Chauhan in the Second Battle of Tarain AD 1192, Sultan Mohammed asked his deputy Qutub ud din Aibak to construct a mosque here so that he could offer namaz before leaving for Afghanistan. The general obliged and converted a university that stood at this site earlier into a masjid within dhai din or two and a half days. There is no way that such an impressive structure was erected in such a small time even if remains of temples were used for its construction. A different version to the above mentioned theory states that only the marble arch in the center of the mosque was completed in two and half days and the grand structure around it was built much later. A second theory which is far more convincing says that this place gets its name from an annual fair that was organized here in olden days that lasted for two and half days.

My own take on this unique nomenclature is something like this. While the mosque may have been well maintained initially during the era of the Delhi Sultanate, it seems that it fell out of use during the days of the later Mughals and the British. There is a possibility that during these years, the place was deserted and was only used for the annual fair. Considering the fact that the monument is located on the outskirts of the old city, may be the traders and the craftsmen who would come from nearby places to sell their stuff in the fair used to stay here in jhopras which in Hindi means 'hut' and can be equated to temporary residences. Of course, this is just what I am suggesting and there is no historical evidence to back it.

The confusion regarding the name apart, one thing that is clear is that the site was originally a Hindu temple dedicated to Goddess Saraswati. As such, it also doubled up as a Sanskrit university where knowledge of the Vedas and other religious texts were imparted to students. Though this claim has been refuted by some scholars, the large number of idols found here as well as the Sanskrit inscriptions discovered on the monument itself is ample proof of the origins of the structure. Many of the statues of Hindu gods that have been found here are now housed in the ASI Museum (Link). The construction of this place of learning is attributed to King Visaldeva - an early Chauhan king of Ajmer in AD 1150. In spite of searching on the net, I could not find much information regarding this ruler.

The Jhopra has been constructed on a raised platform and the steps leading to it are pretty steep. The main entrance is decorated with floral patterns and has certain intricate carvings that are worth seeing. As you walk towards the mosque, you will see a grand screen that consists of seven corbelled gateways. The one at the center is the tallest and the most beautiful in spite of the fact the two minars (columns) that erected on top of it have perished. You can clearly see inscriptions from the holy Quran engraved on it. This structure, the first of its kind in the country was added by Sultan Iltutmish in AD 1213 after occupying the throne of Delhi. The prayer hall that lies beyond it consists of small octagonal rooms have beautifully carved ceilings and are supported by about 70 towering columns, something which is rarely seen in India. Certainly, this place deserves to be amongst the most beautiful structures built during the time of the Delhi Sultanate. The walls around the monument are in ruins and there are remains of a tower from where the prayers were read by the muezzin.

The Adhai Din ka Jhopra is in fact a 'cousin' of the Quwwat ul Islam mosque located in the Qutub Minar complex in Delhi. The construction of both these masjids was started sometime between AD 1192 to AD 1198 i.e. at the dawn of the Islamic rule in India making them some of the oldest mosques in the country. Both of these magnificent structures are attributed to Sultan Qutub ud din Aibak, the viceroy of Mohammed Ghori in Delhi who declared his independence at the death of his master. Both have the iconic corbelled archways that were built by Sultan Iltutmish in the early thirteenth century. They have similar structure, probably because of the fact that they were originally Hindu temples that were later re-modeled as mosques following the defeat of the Rajputs. And most importantly, they are wonderful specimens of the early Islamic architecture.

USEFUL LINKS

(1) Dargah Ajmer - Ajmer Sharif (Link)

(2) ASI, Jaipur Circle - Adhai Din ka Jhopra (Link)

MORE POSTS RELATED TO AJMER

(1) Terracotta Wall Frames (Link)

(2) Akbar's Palace or the Magazine or the ASI Museum (Link)

(3) Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti's Dargah (Link)

(4) Anasagar Lake (Link)

DARGAH OF MOINUDDIN CHISTI, AJMER

THE TOMB OF GHARIB NAWAZ

The Nizam Gate

The dargah of Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti is the most famous landmark of Ajmer attracting lakhs of devotees across the Sub-continent each year. Known as Gharib Nawaz or the 'Benefactor of the Poor', Moinuddin was the founder of the Chisti order of Sufism in India and is considered as the first amongst the four great Sufi saints of southern Asia. Born in the mid twelfth century in Herat, he attained enlightenment at a young age and traveled far and wide across the Muslim world studying religious literature before settling in India following the instructions of Prophet Mohammed who is believed to have appeared in his dream and ordered him to do so. He came to India at around the same time when the Muslim rule was established in the country during the 1190s. He is known to have performed several miracles during his lifetime and preached harmony between people practicing all faiths. He died in AD 1236 and was buried in Ajmer as per his wishes.

The fame of the Sufi saint spread far and wide after his death as his disciples including Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Khaki, Fariduddin Ganjshakar and Nizamuddin Auliya spread his message of love and sympathy to different parts of northern India. It was Emperor Akbar's visit to the tomb of Chisti that firmly established the town as one of the most famous religious centers in India. History tells us that the great Mughal ruler was a regular visitor to the dargah and would walk the last leg of his journey barefoot. In fact, he made several donations for the maintenance of the tomb and even constructed a palace that was used (Link) by him while on pilgrimage. Ever since, people numbering in lakhs including heads of state, politicians and film stars have thronged to seek the blessings of Chisti and it is believed that he grants the wishes of the devotees who come here.

Shops along the Dargah Bazaar

As you walk towards the tomb, looking at the crowds, one may feel that the entire town has descended on this street. In fact, all along the Dargah Bazaar, you can feel the devotion in the atmosphere; the very fact that people come here in such large numbers is enough to overwhelm you emotionally. And as to make your way past the sea of humanity, you will see hordes of beggars with all sorts of deformities asking for alms, hoping to appeal to the conscience of the pilgrims. Near the dargah, there are shops selling carpets (chaddars), flowers and other items that are offered to Khwaja. Since cameras and bags are not allowed inside the shrine, you can keep your footwear and other belongings in any of these shops and in return, you are expected to buy something from there.

The dargah is more than just a place of worship. It consists of several structures that were constructed by emperors and kings on the fulfillment of their wishes. Emperor Akbar the Great built the elegant Akbari Mosque and presented the Badi Deg (Cauldron) in AD 1567 after his forces captured Chittorgarh from the Sissodia Rajputs. His successor Jahangir presented the Chhoti Deg in the early seventeenth century. Shah Jahan who was the most prolific builder amongst the Mughals added two more monuments - the Shah Jahani Gate and the Shah Jahani Mosque which is commonly known as the Jama Masjid. His daughter Princess Jahan Ara is believed to have built the Begami Dalam. The Nizams of Hyderabad who were amongst the richest royal families in India during the 19th century too made several grants to the dargah. The main doorway to the shrine - the Nizam Gate was constructed by Nizam Mir Osman Ali in AD 1915. His father Nizam Asaf Jha VI erected the Mehfil Khana where the qawals perform during the time of the Urs. The Buland Darwaza was built by Sultan Ghiyasuddin Khilji; the Nawab Mohammed Ali of Arcot constructed the Arcot Dalam whereas the Victoria Tank was erected to commemorate the Queen's coronation as the Empress of India.

The central shrine which houses the Tomb of Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti is small and crowned by a beautiful white dome. Entering the shrine though is quite a task primarily due to the massive crowds; the petite entrance leading to the tomb does not help. Next to it is the tomb of Bibi Hafiz Jamal - the daughter of the Sufi saint. Besides, there are a host of other tombs in the entire courtyard belonging to the descendants of Chisti, his staunchest followers, some lesser members of the Mughal household, governors of the region as well as army generals. It is believed that Nizam Bhisti - the water bearer who is believed to have saved the life of Emperor Humayun after a defeat at the hands of Sher Shah Suri is also buried in this complex. Other places of interest include the Ibadat Khana (Prayer Hall), the Auliya Masjid and the Peer Baba's Gaddi.

Chhadars offered to Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti

USEFUL LINKS

(1) Dargah Sharif - History of Dargah Sharif, Ajmer, India (Link)

(2) Hazrat Khwaja Garib Nawaz - Monuments (Link)

MORE POSTS RELATED TO AJMER

(1) Terracotta Wall Frames (Link)

(2) Akbar's Palace or the Magazine or the ASI Museum (Link)

(3) Adhai Din ka Jhopra or Jama Altamash (Link)

(4) Anasagar Lake (Link)

AKBAR'S PALACE, AJMER

THE ASI MUSEUM

The grand entrance to Akbar's Palace

Also known as the Magazine or the Daulat Khana or the Government Museum, the small and simple palatial complex in the heart of Ajmer was constructed by Mughal Emperor Akbar the Great in AD 1570. It is a well documented fact that the Akbar used to visit the dargah of Khwaja Mohinuddin Chisti each year, covering the last leg of the pilgrimage on foot. This palace served as his residence when he was in the holy town. His successors Jehangir too is reported to have stayed here; in fact, Jehangir used to make an appearance from the balcony each morning while he was in the city and address the concerns of his subjects. With the slow disintegration of the Mughal Empire following the death of Aurangzeb, the city fell to the Marathas who in turn sold it to the British in the early nineteenth century. The British used the palace to store their arsenal ground and hence it is also known as the Magazine. Finally, the complex was converted into a museum in October 1908 after the intervention of Lord Curzon and Sir John Marshall, the then chief of ASI.

A closer look at the gateway reveals distinct Hindu and Muslim influences

Located hardly a kilometer away from the Ajmer Railway station, Akbar's palace is a relatively small monument. Considering the fact that at least three Mughal Emperors - Akbar the Great and Jehangir lived here, the whole structure seems rather austere, dramatically different to the opulence that we associate the dynasty and its rulers with. Besides, I wonder how much of protection could the place provide especially during times of crisis as there are no big fortifications that once can see, say in the forts of Delhi and Agra. Luckily for the two rulers, the town remained calm during their reigns. Perhaps, the building was deliberately kept simple as a tribute to the Gharib Nawaz - the Sufi saint who lies buried here.

There are two gates to the complex, the outer one is grand and is one of the earliest structure where you can see a fine amalgamation of local Rajput and Islamic architecture in this region. The semi-octagonal shape and the curved doorways are features of Muslim architecture whereas the the balconies and the intricate latticework in the middle show a distinct Hindu influence. The palace is surrounded by walls on all four sides with watch towers constructed at the four corners. There are rooms along the wall where the exhibits are displayed; they are connected to each other by by small doors. At the center is a square structure with four rooms. I was amazed to see that it lacked a dome. I guess it was used by the members of the Royal family. It is supported by four pillars on each side that are tall and devoid of any major carvings. The entire place has been maintained well by the ASI.

The Mansion at the center

All people familiar with Indian history have heard the name of Sir Thomas Roe - the Englishman who secured the firman or the Imperial Order from Emperor Jehangir to set up a factory of the English East India Company at Surat. The first meeting between the Mughal ruler and the English diplomat is said to have taken place here. I wonder if Jehangir would have ever imagined, even in his wildest dream that just two centuries later, the Britishers would become the dominant military power in the Sub-continent, supplanting the Mughals and the Marathas. Besides, two out of the four sons of Emperor Shah Jahan - Prince Dara Shukoh and Prince Shah Shuja who participated in the fratricidal following the death of their father were born here. Dara, hailed by many as the 'Second Akbar' was defeated by the combined forces of Aurangzeb and Murad Baksh near the holy city in March 1659. He was captured a few months later and put to death. Meanwhile, Shuja was defeated by Auragnzeb's commander Mir Jumla in the east and he is believed to have been killed by tribals on way to Arakan.

The sculptures on display

Amongst the articles exhibited here, the best are the sculptures. Dating to as early as the Gupta period, one can find a large number of Gods worshiped in both Hinduism and Jainism elegantly carved on stones like basalt, granite and marble. The images displayed here have been collected from nearby places including Ajmer, Pushkar, Sikar, Osiyan and Sirohi. One part of the museum is entirely devoted to the Indus Valley Civilization where one can see replicas of the artifacts like the Priest-King, pottery and seals that have been unearthed in Harappa and Mohen-jo-daro. Another gallery showcases the arms and ammunition like swords and guns used in the battles by the Rajput as well as the Mughal army. One section contains a few inscriptions belonging to pre-Islamic era whereas paintings are displayed in another gallery. There is a collection of photographs at the center which displays photos of monuments in the vicinity besides depicting the life in this region. Overall, it is a must visit for all of us who are interested in history, especially that portion of the past relating to Mughals and the Rajputs.

From Left to Right - Pappa, Mummy, Bhabi & Da

USEFUL LINKS 

(1) Ajmer (The Official Website) - Government Museum, Ajmer: Link

(2) ASI, Jaipur Circle - Magazine Building: Link

MORE POSTS RELATED TO AJMER

(1) Terracotta Wall Frames (Link)

(2) Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti's Dargah (Link)

(3) Adhai Din ka Jhopra or Jama Altamash (Link)

(4) Anasagar Lake (Link)

TERRACOTTA WALL FRAMES @ AJMER

PRITHVIRAJ RASO ON TERRACOTTA

It is evident that in Rajasthan, there is a conscious attempt to display the state's rich past and cultural heritage in as many ways as possible. Take the example of the railway stations. From Jaipur to Jaisalmer and Udaipur, the stations are modeled on the state's magnificent palaces, though on a much smaller scale. Some of them even have paintings displaying scenes from mythology and Rajput history. We traveled extensively by rail during our trip while travelling from one city to another. Perhaps, the one station that impressed me the most was Ajmer which is filled with terracotta wall frames on its front side. The holy city of Ajmer was the twin capital of the Chauhan dynasty prior to the twelfth century. Prithviraj - the last Hindu ruler of Delhi who was defeated by Ghori in the Second Battle of Tarain (AD 1192) is a celebrated figure here.

The station has lots of scenes from Prithviraj Raso - the epic ballad written by Chand Bardai who served as the royal poet at the court of the Chauhan Kings. It 'romanticizes' the life of Prithviraj, giving us exaggerated tales of his bravery, both on the battlefield and in love. There is one figure of the king Prthivraj III Chauhan and his queen Sanyogita, the princess of Kannauj whom he is said to have eloped with during the latter's Sayamwara. And then there is the image of a blind Chauhan ruler killing his adversary. Chand writes that after being beaten in Tarain, the King of Delhi was blinded and taken to the court of the Sultan Mohammed of Ghori in Afghanistan along with his friend, the royal poet. Ghori is believed to have expressed his desire to witness the Shabdbhedi Baan Vidya (Sonic Archery) wherein an archer with blindfold relies on the source of sound to shoot arrows at his foe, an art form which Chauhan is supposed to have mastered. As he got ready to shoot the arrow, Chand is believed to have uttered his famous lines, helping his master to strike the enemy in his own court:

Char Baas, Chaubees Gaj, 

Angul Ashta Praman,

Ta Upaar Sultan Hain, 

Mat Chuko Chauhan.

With these clues, Prithvi is supposed to have killed the Sultan and thus avenged his defeat. As the guards closed in on them, Chauhan and Chand are said to have killed themselves. Luckily, Persian and other contemporary Indian records help us unearth the real history the unfolded after the Chauhans were beaten at Tarain in 1192. It is generally believed that the Prithviraj was captured after the battle, brought before the Sultan and then executed. It is highly likely that he was given an option to convert to Islam which he would have rejected. Ghori then went on to capture Delhi and other parts in northern and central India. He nominated his slave Qutub-ud-din Aibak as his Viceroy, bringing an end to the Rajput dominance of North Indian that began with the death of King Harshavardhan. Ghori was assassinated by local tribals in western Punjab while offering prayers about 15 years later. In 1210, Aibak would crown himself the Sultan of Delhi, thereby laying the foundation of Islamic rule in the country.

Meanwhile, even episodes from mythology and rural life are also portrayed here. What I did not like was the conspicuous absence of any reference to the shrine of Gahrib Nawaz. Probably, eight out of every ten people who come to Ajmer pay their obeisance to the great Sufi saint who has been buried here. From great emperors like Akbar to politicians and film personalities, people descend to this city in thousands to seek the blessings of Moinuddin Chishti. As such, a terracotta depiction of Emperor Akbar walking towards the Dargah or something of this sort would have been fantastic. In many ways, it along with the story of Chauhan would have truly reflected the social harmony of the historic city of Ajmer.

Prithviraj Chauhan takes aim at Sultan Ghori with Chand by his side

Scenes from Rural Rajasthan

Radhe-Krishna (Left) and Shrinathji (Right)

Even the sparrows seem to love the Terracotta work

MORE POSTS RELATED TO AJMER

(1) Akbar's Palace or the Magazine or the ASI Museum (Link)

(2) Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti's Dargah (Link)

(3) Adhai Din ka Jhopra or Jama Altamash (Link)

(4) Anasagar Lake (Link)