DARGAH OF MOINUDDIN CHISTI, AJMER

THE TOMB OF GHARIB NAWAZ

The Nizam Gate

The dargah of Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti is the most famous landmark of Ajmer attracting lakhs of devotees across the Sub-continent each year. Known as Gharib Nawaz or the 'Benefactor of the Poor', Moinuddin was the founder of the Chisti order of Sufism in India and is considered as the first amongst the four great Sufi saints of southern Asia. Born in the mid twelfth century in Herat, he attained enlightenment at a young age and traveled far and wide across the Muslim world studying religious literature before settling in India following the instructions of Prophet Mohammed who is believed to have appeared in his dream and ordered him to do so. He came to India at around the same time when the Muslim rule was established in the country during the 1190s. He is known to have performed several miracles during his lifetime and preached harmony between people practicing all faiths. He died in AD 1236 and was buried in Ajmer as per his wishes.

The fame of the Sufi saint spread far and wide after his death as his disciples including Qutbuddin Bakhtiyar Khaki, Fariduddin Ganjshakar and Nizamuddin Auliya spread his message of love and sympathy to different parts of northern India. It was Emperor Akbar's visit to the tomb of Chisti that firmly established the town as one of the most famous religious centers in India. History tells us that the great Mughal ruler was a regular visitor to the dargah and would walk the last leg of his journey barefoot. In fact, he made several donations for the maintenance of the tomb and even constructed a palace that was used (Link) by him while on pilgrimage. Ever since, people numbering in lakhs including heads of state, politicians and film stars have thronged to seek the blessings of Chisti and it is believed that he grants the wishes of the devotees who come here.

Shops along the Dargah Bazaar

As you walk towards the tomb, looking at the crowds, one may feel that the entire town has descended on this street. In fact, all along the Dargah Bazaar, you can feel the devotion in the atmosphere; the very fact that people come here in such large numbers is enough to overwhelm you emotionally. And as to make your way past the sea of humanity, you will see hordes of beggars with all sorts of deformities asking for alms, hoping to appeal to the conscience of the pilgrims. Near the dargah, there are shops selling carpets (chaddars), flowers and other items that are offered to Khwaja. Since cameras and bags are not allowed inside the shrine, you can keep your footwear and other belongings in any of these shops and in return, you are expected to buy something from there.

The dargah is more than just a place of worship. It consists of several structures that were constructed by emperors and kings on the fulfillment of their wishes. Emperor Akbar the Great built the elegant Akbari Mosque and presented the Badi Deg (Cauldron) in AD 1567 after his forces captured Chittorgarh from the Sissodia Rajputs. His successor Jahangir presented the Chhoti Deg in the early seventeenth century. Shah Jahan who was the most prolific builder amongst the Mughals added two more monuments - the Shah Jahani Gate and the Shah Jahani Mosque which is commonly known as the Jama Masjid. His daughter Princess Jahan Ara is believed to have built the Begami Dalam. The Nizams of Hyderabad who were amongst the richest royal families in India during the 19th century too made several grants to the dargah. The main doorway to the shrine - the Nizam Gate was constructed by Nizam Mir Osman Ali in AD 1915. His father Nizam Asaf Jha VI erected the Mehfil Khana where the qawals perform during the time of the Urs. The Buland Darwaza was built by Sultan Ghiyasuddin Khilji; the Nawab Mohammed Ali of Arcot constructed the Arcot Dalam whereas the Victoria Tank was erected to commemorate the Queen's coronation as the Empress of India.

The central shrine which houses the Tomb of Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti is small and crowned by a beautiful white dome. Entering the shrine though is quite a task primarily due to the massive crowds; the petite entrance leading to the tomb does not help. Next to it is the tomb of Bibi Hafiz Jamal - the daughter of the Sufi saint. Besides, there are a host of other tombs in the entire courtyard belonging to the descendants of Chisti, his staunchest followers, some lesser members of the Mughal household, governors of the region as well as army generals. It is believed that Nizam Bhisti - the water bearer who is believed to have saved the life of Emperor Humayun after a defeat at the hands of Sher Shah Suri is also buried in this complex. Other places of interest include the Ibadat Khana (Prayer Hall), the Auliya Masjid and the Peer Baba's Gaddi.

Chhadars offered to Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti

USEFUL LINKS

(1) Dargah Sharif - History of Dargah Sharif, Ajmer, India (Link)

(2) Hazrat Khwaja Garib Nawaz - Monuments (Link)

MORE POSTS RELATED TO AJMER

(1) Terracotta Wall Frames (Link)

(2) Akbar's Palace or the Magazine or the ASI Museum (Link)

(3) Adhai Din ka Jhopra or Jama Altamash (Link)

(4) Anasagar Lake (Link)

AKBAR'S PALACE, AJMER

THE ASI MUSEUM

The grand entrance to Akbar's Palace

Also known as the Magazine or the Daulat Khana or the Government Museum, the small and simple palatial complex in the heart of Ajmer was constructed by Mughal Emperor Akbar the Great in AD 1570. It is a well documented fact that the Akbar used to visit the dargah of Khwaja Mohinuddin Chisti each year, covering the last leg of the pilgrimage on foot. This palace served as his residence when he was in the holy town. His successors Jehangir too is reported to have stayed here; in fact, Jehangir used to make an appearance from the balcony each morning while he was in the city and address the concerns of his subjects. With the slow disintegration of the Mughal Empire following the death of Aurangzeb, the city fell to the Marathas who in turn sold it to the British in the early nineteenth century. The British used the palace to store their arsenal ground and hence it is also known as the Magazine. Finally, the complex was converted into a museum in October 1908 after the intervention of Lord Curzon and Sir John Marshall, the then chief of ASI.

A closer look at the gateway reveals distinct Hindu and Muslim influences

Located hardly a kilometer away from the Ajmer Railway station, Akbar's palace is a relatively small monument. Considering the fact that at least three Mughal Emperors - Akbar the Great and Jehangir lived here, the whole structure seems rather austere, dramatically different to the opulence that we associate the dynasty and its rulers with. Besides, I wonder how much of protection could the place provide especially during times of crisis as there are no big fortifications that once can see, say in the forts of Delhi and Agra. Luckily for the two rulers, the town remained calm during their reigns. Perhaps, the building was deliberately kept simple as a tribute to the Gharib Nawaz - the Sufi saint who lies buried here.

There are two gates to the complex, the outer one is grand and is one of the earliest structure where you can see a fine amalgamation of local Rajput and Islamic architecture in this region. The semi-octagonal shape and the curved doorways are features of Muslim architecture whereas the the balconies and the intricate latticework in the middle show a distinct Hindu influence. The palace is surrounded by walls on all four sides with watch towers constructed at the four corners. There are rooms along the wall where the exhibits are displayed; they are connected to each other by by small doors. At the center is a square structure with four rooms. I was amazed to see that it lacked a dome. I guess it was used by the members of the Royal family. It is supported by four pillars on each side that are tall and devoid of any major carvings. The entire place has been maintained well by the ASI.

The Mansion at the center

All people familiar with Indian history have heard the name of Sir Thomas Roe - the Englishman who secured the firman or the Imperial Order from Emperor Jehangir to set up a factory of the English East India Company at Surat. The first meeting between the Mughal ruler and the English diplomat is said to have taken place here. I wonder if Jehangir would have ever imagined, even in his wildest dream that just two centuries later, the Britishers would become the dominant military power in the Sub-continent, supplanting the Mughals and the Marathas. Besides, two out of the four sons of Emperor Shah Jahan - Prince Dara Shukoh and Prince Shah Shuja who participated in the fratricidal following the death of their father were born here. Dara, hailed by many as the 'Second Akbar' was defeated by the combined forces of Aurangzeb and Murad Baksh near the holy city in March 1659. He was captured a few months later and put to death. Meanwhile, Shuja was defeated by Auragnzeb's commander Mir Jumla in the east and he is believed to have been killed by tribals on way to Arakan.

The sculptures on display

Amongst the articles exhibited here, the best are the sculptures. Dating to as early as the Gupta period, one can find a large number of Gods worshiped in both Hinduism and Jainism elegantly carved on stones like basalt, granite and marble. The images displayed here have been collected from nearby places including Ajmer, Pushkar, Sikar, Osiyan and Sirohi. One part of the museum is entirely devoted to the Indus Valley Civilization where one can see replicas of the artifacts like the Priest-King, pottery and seals that have been unearthed in Harappa and Mohen-jo-daro. Another gallery showcases the arms and ammunition like swords and guns used in the battles by the Rajput as well as the Mughal army. One section contains a few inscriptions belonging to pre-Islamic era whereas paintings are displayed in another gallery. There is a collection of photographs at the center which displays photos of monuments in the vicinity besides depicting the life in this region. Overall, it is a must visit for all of us who are interested in history, especially that portion of the past relating to Mughals and the Rajputs.

From Left to Right - Pappa, Mummy, Bhabi & Da

USEFUL LINKS 

(1) Ajmer (The Official Website) - Government Museum, Ajmer: Link

(2) ASI, Jaipur Circle - Magazine Building: Link

MORE POSTS RELATED TO AJMER

(1) Terracotta Wall Frames (Link)

(2) Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti's Dargah (Link)

(3) Adhai Din ka Jhopra or Jama Altamash (Link)

(4) Anasagar Lake (Link)